Disclaimer: The drone world moves quick. Please check the last-updated portion on the bottom of the page. If it’s more than three months old, it is probably outdated when it comes to motors / props / esc’s. The other stuff generally moves a tad slower and may be accurate. If it’s more than a year old it’s all probably outdated.
Did you just discover the sport of Drone Racing? Did you meet someone at the park and wanted more information which lead you here? Looking to get into the hobby? Want to know where to spend the extra money and where to resist? Start off with a Tiny Whoop. It really is one of the best ways to get into the hobby. It’s light weight, very forgiving, and most importantly to new fliers… Cheap! You can do it at night, indoors, anywhere but windy environments.
This is what I believe a good spot to start. I will list out my suggestions and why. This hobby is a lot like computers and as time goes by there will always be something newer and better available. I will try to keep this updated with the best for “newbies”. The focus of this will really be simplicity. I am not trying to go the complicated best route for the new pilot.
I am also not trying to save money on these suggestions. There is always going to be a cheaper way to do what you want, but I feel this is where it’s worth it to spend the money.
Radio & Receiver
FrSky X-Lite – This radio is what finally got me to pull away from my good old Taranis. It’s a smaller radio, it’s designed like a game controller in mind and works great for anyone that uses their thumbs to move the sticks rather than pinching. It comes with a nice compact case so it’s easy to transport around. It also features hall sensor gimbals which provide more precise accuracy.
If you need a bunch of switches, the Taranis X9D is still my go to. For my FPV Planes (long range) I use the X9D as I have so many different settings on the switches, plus it has a full size module bay which allows me to throw in my UHF transmitter.
For a receiver I would go with the FrSky R-XSR or the XM+. They are both very small receivers, the XM+ does not support telemetry, but with all the flight controllers now days that have OSD’s I don’t feel it’s needed as much as it used to.
Personally I use the R9 Mini as it provides better penetration through difficult flying environments (trees, buildings, etc) but it does require you have a R9 transmitter. I use the R9M Lite Transmitter personally.
Frame
Any 3″ frame (Sorry sponsors). I know everyone wants to start with a “250” class frame, but they are heavier and typically don’t handle as well. I progressed my skills more with the QuadRevo Rage 180 than any other quad out there. Since they are smaller they are also typically lighter and have less mass. Less mass equates to less damage during crashes, and you will be doing a lot of that.
Flight Controller
This is probably the hardest one for me to decide on. The flight controller market is so crowded there’s always a new one coming up. So I am going to break this down by features you want.
Processor: You want a flight controller with a F4 or F7 processor.
OSD: Built in
Motors
Alright let’s do “Motors” a little different. Let’s get down to basics (in layman’s terms too!)
Motors have two numbers, it common looks like XXXX/YYYY. The XXXX means the stator size. So it’s usually like 1806, 2204, etc. The first two numbers are the size across in mm, while the second number is the height.
The YYYY is the rpm per volt. So if it’s a 1000kv motor a 3S (12.5v) battery will spin it around 12,500 rpm, while a 4S (16.8v) will spin at roughly 16,800rpm. Now of course those are under optimal conditions.
My General rule of thumb ( for 3S/4S)
3″ Props ~ 3100-4000kv
4″ Props ~ 2600-3100kv
5″ Props ~ 2300kv
6″ Props ~ 2000kv
Now you can go above that, I use 5″ Triple props on 2600kv as my main setup. It isn’t very efficient, and the motors come down very hot. It’s a risk I am willing to accept and I have blown ESC’s / Motors doing this.
So for this build I would suggest something in the 1306/1407 range. You can go big like a 2205 to give you more power but it will directly affect the handling of the quad. Personally I like Tornado, Emax and DYS in the 1306 / 1407 size range.
Power Distribution Board
RealACC/Maktek PDB-XPW – This is a great board to pair with the SirinFPV Flight Controller. It will provide current to the FC and it also has 5v and 12v out.
Propellers
DALprop T4045BN – When you start flying quadcopters you will notice you go through a lot of propellers. Starting with a durable propeller is key. DAL props are known for being very durable and can survive a crash. They do sometimes get bent and you’ll have to bend them back but it’s generally pretty easy to do.
ESCs
DYS XSD 20A – The DYS XSD 20A’s are a BLHeli_S ESC that supports DShoot600 from the start. It’s also one of the cheapest ESC’s out htere. Personally I stay away from 4-in-1 ESC’s due to if one breaks, you are buying a full new board.
FPV Equipment
Above this was everything you need to get the quad flying. Now we will go into what you need to fly via First Person Video. Everyone that races is using FPV to fly their drone.
Goggles:
Fatshark HDO – While I don’t have these goggles, they are known as the best out there. Fatshark has finally entered the world of OLED’s with them. While the goggles are far from perfect, they are the best you can get currently.
Cheap Route: 5-7″ Monitor Goggles (various brands)
Goggle RX:
La Forge Diversity – I love these things. They are top quality units and reception is huge. I no longer have to carry around my Diversity Receiver! Highly recommended, but pricey at $100.
Cheap Route: Fatshark 5.8 Ghz NexWave Receiver Module for Dominators
Video Transmitter (VTX)
Since like flight controllers there are so many on the market, I am going to break it down by features you want.
Selectable Output Power: 25-200mw
Control via FC: Tramp or SmartAudio
Cameras
RunCam Split 2 or RunCam Split Mini – CMOS Cameras for the longest time were horrible cameras. Over the past year they have become much better. The two camera’s I suggest actually are HD quality camera’s. They record 1080p 60 fps onboard the quad. So you’ll still see a lower SD analog video, you at least get that higher quality. There is no need to bring a gopro with you at this point. However there is a little bit of latency in the video. For most people I think you can still fly with it. If
Antennas
Foxeer 5.8GHz Stubby RHCP – These can be used for both your goggles and your quad if you want. These are not super durable, but at only $9.99 they are pretty good.
Extras: GPS, Bluetooth, etc
For a racing drone… none of these are needed. The bluetooth dongle is helpful for tuning but now days I don’t feel it is needed as much. GPS, you really don’t want GPS on a racing quad.
Latest Update:
8/7/2018 – Updated many categories and deleted old information.
2/16/2017 – Complete re-do almost. Updated for 2017 basically.
6/1/2016 – Gave a little bit more info on the motor size and kv rating. Added link to Naze32
5/27/2016 – Replaced Dodo FC with Lux, added La Forge
4/27/2016 – Added a few more cheaper options for items.
4/22/2016 – Removed the LittleBee 20’s from the list as the XM20’s have proven to be rock solid.